In Pinocchio country (part 2)

Our path took us into the old centre of Pescia.  It was all very quiet, it being the prolonged "intermezzo di pranzo"(lunch break).  However we found a cafe where we had enjoyed a cappuccino and lunch (a combination which Italians probably never have!)

We returned to Collodi without delay, as we didn't want to do the unfamiliar drive home in the dark.  Pescia is an ancient centre of paper-making, and driving up the valley, we re-passed several paper mills - both ancient and modern - which we had seen on the way down.  We were struck by the ranks of very tall slender windows in the upper stories of the old buildings.  It turns out that these upper floors were where the paper sheets were hung out to dry in older times, just like washing, and the large windows allowed a free flow of air.

The central piazza in Pescia

Another picture showing the well-preserved path 

This oak still showing its autumn gold

Almost back in Collodi, Barbara has a rest on this bench which has had a leg-up due to the slope

All the Pinocchios you could ask for ...

Paper mill views showing modern paper product, and the long ventilating windows

Back near Bagni di Lucca, we stopped to take the now obligatory sunset photo!

In Pinocchio country (part 1)

Today we continued our exploration of our area with a visit to the little town of Collodi, just over an hour away in another valley.  Carlo Lorenzini, who in 1880 wrote Pinocchio, lived in the town and adopted it as his pen-name.  Today, there is a modest Pinocchio park, and some souvenir shops selling versions of the famous marionette.

Barbara had found a new walk in one of Pietro's many books, which allowed us to walk to the neighbouring town of Pescia over a beautiful well-made paved road through olive groves.  Despite the freezing cold ground temperatures, it was warm in the sun, and people were everywhere deploying large orange nets below the trees, and getting on with the olive harvest.

Pinocchio literally dominates Collodi ...

... but so does the magnificent Villa Garzoni, and has done since 1652 ...

... and its equally splendid garden, not open today

Exotic palms lined some parts of the path ...

... which was paved (mostly) and on the level (mostly) - grand for an amble!

The orange nets make quite a contrast with the green sward

But they must take a lot of setting up 

Looking back, a picturesque village appears on the hillside

A sunny Barga day

Barbara went down the town to shop this morning, while Bill made a bowl - at last!

A dry sunny day, so we could have our lunch on the terrace.

A walk down via Buvicchia and  Loppia to Fornaci where we refreshed ourselves with coffee and a pastry.

A walk back to Barga via Casciani's where we refreshed ourselves with a glass of wine around six o'clock.  There was a jolly atmosphere, as an  impromptu concert (accordion and drum) enlivened the busy bar.

Soup - minestrone of course

On the way down to the river

Barbara on the old bridge at Loppia

Setting sun sets the Appenines ablaze on the way back to Barga ...

Accordianist sets the night ablaze in Casciani's ...

Trip to Montefegatesi

A beautiful day of weather yesterday - cold but sunny.  We went down the Serchio valley to Bagni di Lucca - in the 19th century, the playground of "half of Europe" the tourist brochure says.  It's smaller than Barga, so accommodation must have been a bit of a problem I think. Anyway, a spa town of decaying grandeur.

Then a very winding road to the village of Montefegatesi.  (if we'd known how difficult it was to pronounce, we might have opted for nearby Limano instead!)  As can be seen from the photos - it is quite a picturesque little place.

A cold day, so now that we were higher up, we were below freezing point.  We wanted to go even higher, to a hill known as the Prato Fiorito (Wildflower Meadow), but the unmetalled road was not good driving.  So we walked up the road instead, as far as the jumping off point for the hill walk.  Everything looked fine in the snow and sun.  Perhaps we'll return another time and do the hilltop.

Back at the car, we went into the village and had a coffee in the little bar which although it looked closed from outside, was really lively with old men (who looked like they'd been boar hunting), young women and babies, and one large dog ...

Montefegatesi nestling on its hilltop ...

 ... and a closer view

Barbara with the Monte Prato Fiorito behind

Another snowy scene

and another 

A rare view of the sea with islands in the distance - Elba and perhaps others (we don't know our others from our Elba ...)

and Montefegatesi has a cafe!

Ciao Jean!

Maddeningly, after a week of indifferent weather, we awoke to blue skies on Jean's leaving day, yesterday. However, we all enjoyed our visit to Pisa, and for Jean the first view of the famous tower.

Obviously, winter is officially here!

But it didn't feel like it in Pisa!

Cappuccini in a pavement cafe - ye canna whack it ...

and a gelato by the Arno for seconds ...

Back at Barga station, this plane tree has ready made baubles

And a fine sunset for Jean to fly through on her way home

Hike to Sommocolonia

With Jean's time running out it was time to tackle a slightly more arduous walk.  We settled on the climb up to Sommocolonia, the little village perched high above Barga.  The rain stayed off all day which made for a very pleasant walk, and the visibility was pretty good allowing us to enjoy the stunning panoramas over the Serchio valley.

Most of our favourite walks which were all intact last year are now affected to greater or lesser degree by the rainstorm we had in October, causing major landslides which are very unsettling, and of course disrupt the course of our meanders.  As these are the ancient mule trails from the time before the roads, it is sad to think we may be witnessing their imminent demise.

Looking up to Sommocolonia high above

As we gain altitude, the view unfurls ...

... and is enjoyed by Barbara and Jean

Almost there - the path improves nearer the village

The old road into town

On the way back down, Bill and Barbara upstaged by Barga in the middle distance

A trip to Lucca

The weather has made decision-making difficult. The temperature has dropped a lot, and we had sleet on Wednesday night - ie snow on higher ground.  After a night of thunder and lightning, however,  the morning showed promise, so we headed off for the Lucca train yesterday (Friday).

The day continued to improve, so after a cappiccino, we hired bikes and did a circuit of the wall, and a run through the less busy streets of the town - enormous fun!

Back in Barga, courtesy of Jean, we went out for a meal, which was excellent as usual (the Altana), but omitted getting a photograph unfortunately - having too good a time I doot!

Despite the rain, we managed a barbecue on Thursday

Jean and Barbara outside the wall at Lucca

A busy shopping street

Up on the wall 

Apuan Alps glittering in last night's snow

You say tomato - we say Metato

Yesterday we went into Pisa to meet Jean at the airport, and despite an iffy forecast, we had a sunny trip back to Barga.  After a glass or two of Prosecco, a jolly reunion was had by all.

Today dawned foggy and colder than of late, but the fog cleared, and we headed off to do the "Metato" walk nearby the village of Sillico.  It was in the cafe in Sillico that we experienced the earthquake last year, so we feel we have a bit of a bond with the staff there - formed as we customers and staff all rushed out into the open air together!  Today, it was our first visit this year, and they were very welcoming.

After the (compulsory) cappucino, we headed off through the ancient village on our walk.  Metati are ancient stone buildings used historically to dry the chestnuts at this time of year.  The chestnuts can then be shelled and made into the flour which was a staple in times gone by.  Most metati are now in various states of disrepair, or actually in ruins.  Today, however we were heartened to see smoke rising from the tiled roof of one of the buildings.  There was no-one around, so obviously the process had been left to go on by itself.  All the communities in the valley have some sort of chestnut festival around this time, so there is still a demand for chestnuts and their products.

The rain held off all day, so we were able to fire up the oven and have pizza for tea!

Sun in the foreground, but dark clouds looming in the distance!

Among the chestnuts and the sheep

Smoke drifts upwards from the roof of the metato

Now - what is there for lunch?

400 degrees and counting!

Finished product - yum!