In Lucca

On Wednesday we took the train back to Lucca from Florence.  Lucca was a half-way house, as the next day, D&D needed to get to Pisa for their flight, and we were to go back to Barga.

The lights and illuminations in Lucca were beautiful, our hotel (15th century, natch) was superb and we had a great meal in an osteria just by the amphitheatre.

Next day, after making our farewells, B&B paid an overdue visit to the Lucca museum which is basically an ancient palace, intact and with all the trimmings.

Light show on the side of the Basilica San Michele ...

... and on the walls of the houses lining the amphitheatre 

... and forming a backdrop to B&D on the way to our meal

The big mirror allowed me to take a photo without getting up!   

Wending our way back to the hotel

In the palace, Barbara admires the opulent sleeping arrangements 

In Florence

As we did last year, we went to Florence for the day, on Tuesday.  We went up the dome of the Duomo, and enjoyed the fantastic views afforded from the cupola at the top.

D&D head off to immerse themselves in Firenze

Famous statue - "Il Porcellino"(The Piglet) - In front of a dazzling display of handbags at the New Market.  Visitors rub his nose to ensure a speedy return to Florence.

The calm waters of the Arno mirror the Ponte Vecchio ...

... while a reflective gull contemplates other reflections

A dazzling display of glass in an upmarket shop window

What B&B&D&D did next ...

Busy days.  We had a wonderful meal in a busy Altana (favourite restaurant) and on the way home had a seat by a still hot brazier left over from a street market.

Next day to Montefegetisi down near the old spa town of Bagni di Lucca, and the high walk which B&B did a week or so ago.  A lot of the snow has now gone.  We haven't had a proper thaw, but there has been a lot of sunshine, and no further precipitation.  Wonderful days really.

A surreal warm seat in a deserted Barga

High above Bagni di Lucca - looking out to sea with Corsica on horizon

The end of the picnic

Montefegatesi in the westering sun upstages B&B

Looking towards the Apuani from Montefegatesi

B&B welcome D&D

We met Donella and Dave in Lucca on Friday. They had come from Pisa where it was sunny, and we had come from Barga where it was also sunny, but In Lucca it was cold and cloudy - ho hum. Anyway, capuccini were had, as were panini, before we headed for the train home, where bread dough and a lot of sticks awaited conversion to pizzas.

Today, morning mist cleared to allow us to hike up to Sommocolonia.  We came down to Barga to attend a small "Degustazione Castagnaccio" (tasting - and judging -  the chestnut traybakes) and a beer in a very busy bar d'Aristo.

What can I say? - fun in Lucca 

And again ...

Getting a heat-up from the pizza oven

Bill tells it like it is over lunch

Around Barga

The good weather has allowed us to get on with homely chores.  The olives have not been as productive as last year, but Barbara easily collected enough good ripe ones to put in brine for eating.  This time, after washing, the olives were slit to try and speed up the process - we didn't do this last year and it was many weeks before the olives were edible.

Yesterday, however we stirred ourselves to drive up the road behind us to Renaio, a hamlet of three or so houses, (but one of which is a cafe!) for a walk in the snow.  The mountains were very serene and beautiful.

The olive harvest ...

Preparing for the pickle ...

Bill gets on with the woodwork ...

... while Barbara gets on with the Italian

Picnic spot above Renaio

The snow is slowly going ...

... but this chap still found a warm spot to bask in the sun

Murano where the glass comes from

Apparently, in 1291, the Venetians decided that their glassworks were just too much of a fire risk, so they were all banished to the nearby island of Murano. At one point Murano was the main producer of glass in Europe.

Murano is just a mini Venice, canals and all.  Every second shop sells glass and there is a museum showing the evolution of Venetian glass from Roman times.

It was all very interesting - with a couple of vaporetto rides thrown, to keep us islanders happy.

Vaporettos jockey for position at the "bus stop"

Barbara and Murano

Old examples of Murano glass in the museum (not my photo!)

Modern designs can be more flamboyant 

With all that glass, you need barges of bubblewrap!

Venice, day two

The weather (now Sunday) continues fine, absolutely beautiful in fact, and we have just been around the house, in the garden and having a short Sunday walk.  So - here are some more photos of our Venice trip! (and one more Venice post tomorrow probably!)

The Doge's palace (14th century onwards) - note walkways stacked ready for the "aqua alta" or high tide events which flood St Mark's square in winter 

The domes of St Mark's give an eastern look in contrast to the renaissance buildings in Florence

These chaps took our attention, as they were so different from their surroundings.  Apparently they were looted by the Venetians from Constantinople in 1204 AD

A well-kept doorbell plate on a canal-side building

A reminder that all goods in Venice must be transported by boat and hand-barrow

The last remaining gondola boatyard

Evening sun strikes the church of Santa Maria della Salute on the grand canal ...

... and later that evening

We've been to Venice ...

We knew we wanted to revisit Venice, but last year we were so lucky with the weather,we thought it would be impossible to equal it.  However, a good forecast spurred us on to go this week.

Venice is just in a realm of its own, not just the canals, but the maze of tiny streets, much like the souks of Morocco, the absence of cars, and the sea light all produce an effect that is almost mythical.

This time we stayed in a hotel in an old Palazzo very much in the ancient centre of the city - like all the palazzos, it has a water gate where goods and people can be loaded and offloaded.

We walked to the Arsenale - the ancient naval base of the Venetian Republic, still in use by the Italian navy. There we caught the end of a team rowing event - illustrating the dramatic standing-up style better known on the one man gondolas.

(This post nearly never happened - on our last morning, the camera card became corrupted, and it appeared all our Venice photos were lost; it was very disappointing.    Back at Barga, it still looked as if the card was beyond repair, but a piece of software bought off the internet miraculously saved the day.  A very 21st century experience indeed!)

Gondolas and vaporettos on the Grand Canal seen from the Rialto Bridge 
on our walk from railway station to hotel

but the smaller canals have their own charm - note barge with load of chestnut beams 

Barbara at front door of our hotel - fortunately there was a side entry for pedestrians!

View from our bedroom window

Where light meets water

One of the magnificent lions guarding the Arsenale (they were pinched from Constantinople!)

Racing rowers at the Arsenale

Night view of La Fenice - Venice's opera house where Verdi operas had their first nights

Our waiter took our picture in this restaurant near to La Fenice

Through the maze on the way back to our hotel