Siena

Last year, we rally enjoyed our trip to Siena, and left many interesting things unseen, so it was time for a return trip.  On the way, we were able to have lunch with Mary (Donella's sister) and John in Florence where they are staying for a week before moving on to Lucca, and maybe Barga.  They had a great wee flat about 100 yards from the Duomo!  In the warm sunshine, Florence was not what we have become accustomed to, with huge crowds, and long queues at the tourist hotspots.

After a tumultuous bus journey (it was a substitute bus, and the road is up in many places just now ...) we arrived in Siena just before sundown.  We had an pleasant walk through busy streets to our B&B which was in a calm leafy suburb just outside the walls, with a splendid view across to the old town.

First things first - ie gelato ...

Looking across to Siena Duomo and the tower of the Palazzo dei Popolo

Later that evening, after our meal, we wended our way home via the cathedral square - where had all the tourists gone?

Next morning, we climbed a high tower which gave splendid views including this panoramic shot  showing cathedral and countryside beyond - Siena is not a very large city

Looking down on the Campo, where the famous horse race - the Palio - is held in the summer

The rolling landscape for which Tuscany is famous

In the cathedral museum were many marble sculptures which have been brought indoors from the elements.  This little chap seems a bit startled by the change ...

A strikingly modern looking face on an 800 year old painting in the Siena Art Gallery - it was painted by Dietisalvi di Spemi, one of many great artists of whom we have not heard .. 

We headed for the train through the Camollia Gate.  The arch of the gate bears the inscription "Cor Magis Tibi Siena Pandit", meaning "Siena opens its heart to you wider than this gate" - which is nice.

Verni and the lost trail to Trassilico

Last year we attempted to walk along a marked path from Verni to Trassilico - both villages which we look at daily across the valley.  That time we failed, but a new sign has been put up in Trassilico leading us to believe that perhaps the trail had been cleared.

The path is a very pretty one to start off, with the trees coming into leaf and many spring flowers. However, despite getting a bit further than last year - we reached a small derelict mill which we had not seen - the trail eventually led to a scene of broken trees and big boulders, and, only just discernible, the remains of a small bridge.  It had to be our farthest point.

Back down at Verni, we spoke to a young chap tending to his livestock - including a large pig - the only one we have seen in Italy, despite the prevalence of pork on the menu!  He explained that the bridge was washed away in the bad storm in October which has caused so much damage everywhere. It did mean however that if we had persevered last year, we might have found the bridge, and completed the trail!  Ah weel ...

Barbara at the grand gates of the little village of Verni 

The mill standing among evidence of great waters

only a matter of time ...

Hopper and millstones still present ...

Dramatic waterfall further up

Round the walls of Lucca

High time for a cycle run round the walls of Lucca.  Although the magnificent magnolias are past now, the trees on the wall are beginning to leaf up.  We also took the opportunity to visit the botanic garden which we have often seen from above (on the wall) - but it is closed for much of the winter.

The Guinigi tower with its top-knot of holm oaks and other Luccan towers seen from the wall

On the wall - they look like trees in full leaf, but are in fact elms bearing myriads of their leaf-like seeds 

Off the wall and heading for lunch (it was the only photo we took with bike!)

Cute terrapins in the botanic garden - but someone should tell them to sit in a more picturesque part of the pool!

Beautiful blossom tree (sorry arborophiles, didn't catch its name - but it's from China!)

Trip to the Hermitage

We did this walk last year, and I remebered it was quite a stiff climb from Sillico up to the Eremo at Capraia, and then it was really windy and quite cold.  Not so this year.  This was probably our warmest day so far and a great day for a trek.

Steeper than it looks!

Still steeper than it looks!

The Eremo on its rocky spur 

More blossom in the street in Sillico

Florence and Barga

Yesterday a trip to Firenze to see a Botticelli and a Ghirlandaio - and to do some shopping.  Like the trees of blossom, Florence was buzzing in the sun, with loads of visitors milling around the main squares - it just seemed as if the tourist season had happened overnight.

We had a lazy day back home today, looking for outside chores to do - slowly ...

Giotto's campanile reflected in the window of an awfy posh shop

A strange one this - an old building unsuccessfuly clad in concrete, now plastered with money (dollar notes rather than euros, presumably for legal reasons?) in some arty protest at the resulting eyesore

The Arno back to normal after recent high levels after rains in February

Mystical misty morning heralds another good day

20-plus temperatures drop in the evening, so the wood still has to be got in ...

Spring

The better weather has suddenly brought many signs of spring - birdsong, blossom and many insects on the move - honey bees, bumblebees, butterflies and even wasps.  We had a large disoriented locust on the train today - it certainly disorientated the passengers!

Duomo, blossom and butterfly

Two Red Admirals at the feast

Bill emerges blinking into the late sunlight

The sun sets on a balmy evening

The Flowery Meadow - Monte Prato Fiorito

We have been meaning to visit this hill for a while now.  The two times we have been there, the summit has been too snowy for the climb.  However, now the warm spell has melted the snow, we felt it was our chance - and perhaps also for it to live up to its flowery name.

The trip takes us down the valley from Barga to the spa village of Bagni di Lucca, then up a winding road ascent for about half an hour to the spectacular hilltop village of Montefegatesi (cappuccino!).

The walk begins near Montefegatesi, and continues up a vehicle track for about an hour to the foot of the hill proper.  We were bowled over by the crocuses on the way up - getting denser and denser with altitude it seemed.  On the hill path, though there were probably millions of flowers, it still seemed instinctive to try to avoid treading on them!

A taste of what's to come on the track up

The upper terraces are even better!

Crocuses, sun and snow - and Alpine scene

Monte Prato Fiorito rises up before us - an easy final climb

Nothing to beat a ridge walk, with stunning views on every hand ...

Looking north 

Bill and Barbara and some small stones ...

a last look at the view to the south before heading down ...

Trip to Montecarlo and Collodi

Looks like there is good weather in all Europe at the moment, and we have been getting our share - so we have had a few trips these last few days.  Wednesday found us back in Pinocchio country - a visit to the walled town of Montecarlo - known for its wines, not casinos, and a placid walk near Collodi (Pinocchiotown) which was filled with spring flowers.

An old guy at an old gate - Montecarlo 

Purple orchid on the trail from Collodi to Pescia

Early spider orchid

Field of large as-yet-unidentified daisies

A large anemone

It wasn't all flora - the fauna included these swarming ants - with flying ants also visible

Motrone

Strange name - strange place.  Motrone is a tiny village visible from Barga by night by its four street lights appearing impossibly high up in the mountains across the Serchio valley from us.  During the day it is hard to see the village with the unaided eye.  So a visit to Motrone has been on our list for a long time.  It is, of course at the end of an incredibly steep and winding road eight kilometres from the valley bottom.  Half-way up there is the village of San Romano.  We attempted to walk between the two, but after half and hour, the path fizzled out, so, reluctantly, we had to drive. Fortunately, not a vehicle was met with, either on the ascent or descent, so no horrible manoeuvres were necessary!  The village itself was as charming as we had expected, but there is no doubt that there are a lot of unoccupied houses ...

We chatted to an elderly woman who had been collecting vegetables from her much fenced-around garden.  She was fastening the gates with some care to prevent, she explained, the wild boars from eating all her produce ...  Later we met her again, this time barrowing wood to her house - quite an arduous life being lived high up in these villages still.

The four lights of Motrone, with Cardoso below, above the lights of the valley town

On the way, we went in to Cardoso to buy cheese and, er a cappuccino ...

Barbara washes the fruit at the medieval washing-up facility in San Romnano

Wild strawberry growing in San Romano

While up in Motrone, the streets still have their original cobbles 

Some more original than others ...

Wild widow irises growing in Motrone