Through wheat and wine lands to Montepulciano

On Tuesday, we made our way from San Gimignano, through the classic Tuscan countryside of the Val d'Orcia to the wine town of Montepulciano.  On the way, we stopped at the farm and castle at La Foce described in Iris Origo's book War in the Val d'Orcia - a dramatic account of the days in 1943 when the battle front slowly moved through the area.  The farm played host variously to refugees, German deserters, Italian partisans and both allied and German troops.  A remarkable story.

British prisoners of war were imprisoned in the castle for a time. The castle is not open to the public, but by chance, we met two local women there who showed us round.  Both had tales of the war to tell, and one of them was born in the castle.  Fifty-eight years ago, the other had planted the tree now growing outside the castle gate, seen on the right hand side of the photo of Barbara.

From La Foce it was only a few miles to our destination, the walled hill town - of course - of Montepulciano.

The view from the farm of La Foce

Hilltop farm with ploughed land

Barbara in front of the castle

The ladies outside the former prisoner of war barracks

The vineyards - source of the famous wine

One of the fanciful sculptures gracing the square in Montepulciano

Towers of Power - San Gimignano

Apparently, rich families many towns in medieval Italy became obsessed at one time with displaying their wealth conspicuously by building tall towers on their properties.  In most towns, few remain (Lucca has two), but San Gimignano has held on to 14 out of the original 70.  This, together with the fact that it has its city wall intact, has made it a favourite with film-makers.  Tea With Mussolini (Maggie Smith, Judi Dench) was made there.

We were fortunate to end up with a fantastic flat in the centre owned by a charming guy, Claudio, who met us and showed us the ropes - in these places, this mainly means how to manage the underground car parking!

It was Claudio who told us the story, perhaps apocryphal, that the Torri Gemelle of San Gimignano inspired an American architect to conceive of the twin towers in New York.  The last photo shows what he means.

The unmistakeable skyline of San Gimignano

View from our flat

Towers in the main square

...and from the town wall path

Tuscan view from the town wall path

Le Torri Gemelle - the twin towers of San Gimignano

Volterra - the Real Etruscany

Weather being propitious, we have driven down to the "real Tuscany", land of pencil thin cypress trees, rolling hills and chianti vineyards.

Volterra our first stop is an ancient Etruscan hill town, originally famous for its mineral wealth - copper, alum and alabaster.  Its decline was literal - the soft rock on which the town was built suffered periodic collapses, catapulting parts of the town into the abyss ...

We enjoyed the town, took in a fair of local produce, and happened upon a local event ...

Volterra

It's a hilltop town with no cars, so it's a long step to the car park!

This is truffle time - and we're not talking chocolates here ...

We were surprised by a medieval procession ...

... which culminated in cheese rolling races!

Le Balze - the cliffs down which two thirds down which parts of the town disappear occasionally ...

Gentle rambles

Just been around Barga, getting into old routines.  Weather has been pretty good and warm, as in all of Europe it seems.

Had a walk up towards Coreglia, but the paths are very damaged by the rain.

Left  a cushion out on the bench.  Our cat (absolutely not our cat!) spent a sunny day on it!

From Tiglio to Coreglia

View down to the valley 

Can't get enough of the cyclamens!

Cat nap ..

Petunias and wood pile in the sun in our garden

Quiet day and pizza

A fine day today.  Went down to town for coffee in the old town and a bit of shopping.

Back home the sun shone, taking the temp. up to 25 degrees which was nice - lunch outside ...

Decided we must try the new pizza oven today.  It'll probably not replace the electric fan version, but it's a lot more fun!  The result - pretty good for a first attempt we thought ...

A bonny day in Tuscany

Alchemist at work

Barbara gives it a whirl ...

Into the fiery furnace

Finished product

All gone, no problem!

Too much excitement!

After a poor forecast, Sunday the 20th dawned not such a bad day, and we had our coffee outside and did some shopping later.

The weather deteriorated, and worked itself up to a continuous electrical storm by mid evening, the valley frequently lit by the sheet lightning, and the thunder continuously rolling around the mountains. Rain was constant, frequently getting up to biblical standard.  Then the power went off, candles were lit, and Bill had to reacquaint himself with the switchgear to get the power back on. This happened twice, before we retired for a disturbed night.  After one spectacular nearby bang in the middle of the night, we woke in the morning to the lights off again, but again easily fixed by resetting the circuit breakers.  Not so easy to sort however was the internet.  No lights on the modem suggested our "near-miss" had done its damage.

An indication that we weren't the only ones affected was when the bread van man described the situation as a disastro, and said that all the four roads into Barga at were one point closed by landslides!  We didn't feel like venturing far that day, so no spectacular photos could be taken, but when we went down to Fornaci yesterday to get a new modem, two roads were still closed, and stones and mud were everywhere in evidence on the two which were open.

A video of the Serchio river in full flood - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaiLu8zked0#t=115 - shows how much water had fallen in the valley - the most ever in such a short a space of time according to the mayor. (you may need to replay the youtube clip to get the whole thing)

Obviously, we are now back online, thanks to Pietro and Ennebi Computers (who sold 26 new modems after the event!)  and we are slowly drying out - although some of last week's sun would now be appreciated!

The morning after the night ...

Our own small frana (landslip)

  A slightly bigger one down in Barga

Light and shade that evening ...

Trip to Lucca

Really had to do something special yesterday, so hit on a trip to Lucca and a bike hire.  So after a visit to our neighbours at the farm for some pecorino, and to Barga market, we headed to the train.

Discovered that there is a sculpture exhibition in and around the town.  The town was very busy as it is just preparing for the Comics festival which we enjoyed last year.  Always something on in Lucca, it seems.

Outside the walls, cycled out a road lined with late 19th century Art-Nouveau villas, all with beautiful friezes done in coloured tiles.

After some traffic hassle, found the cycle route down by the river Serchio, where anglers and kayakers were doing their things.

Back in town just time for a beer and panini and a view of Via Filungo, Lucca's narrow main shopping street before making for the station.  A full day.

Barbara seems to be comforting a despondent Lucca resident ...

... a closer look

A villa

A nother

Not a cinema - a private house!

7.20 pm - shopping like there's no tomorrow ...

Yesterday again ...

Suddenly, at the last gasp, we were up on the ridge, and presented with magnificent views of the Apuan alps northward, the Ligurian coastline in the west, and the Apennines to the east.

To our surprise (and a little chagrin!) the summit was quite well populated with walkers all having their lunch, and yarning in grand Italian style!

The descent was uneventful - just seemed a bit longer than the way up, and we were pretty weary when we got back to the car.  Today, our leg muscles are telling us not to do that again in the near future!

The summit ridge, and view north beyond

Coastline just visible, with the Med beyond

A companionable crew on top

Bill just didn't quite beat the timer for the summit shot!

Looking west across the Serchio valley to Apennines

Preparing for the descent 

Up the airy mountain ...

Hairy more like!  We really wanted to climb this mountain - Pania della Croce -  last year, but by the time we got organised, the snow had fallen on the high peaks, and never left until this summer.  The peak towers over Barga, and tantalises all hill walkers who see it from afar.

Although the peak is 1858m high, it is of course not climbed from sea level, so the final tally was just on 2500 ft - the hight of a Corbett at home.  Still, an impressive climb, and very rocky further up, with boulder fields and scree slopes to negotiate.  The path is well marked however, and there were other climbers around to give added security.

Really a fantastic day - only got home around six-ish, so we are pleasantly tired tonight a, and no doubt will sleep well!

More pics tomorrow...

Pania della Croce - our objective, seen from home at about 7.30

An oddly shaped hill along the way

A climb up through the beech woods is a gentle prologue to any ascent

The neighbouring Pania Secca - not so high, but more challenging - one for the experts

The stones begin ...

... as they mean to continue