A windy day in Prato

Today we went on the train to Prato, a town just a few stops from Florence by train.  It was a fine day, but we were surprised to find quite a cool breeze blowing, which is unusual.

Prato has been a textile town since the middle ages, but doesn't have quite the intact historic centre that Florence, Siena or Pisa have, so is not really on the tourist trail.  Clothing manufacture is their major industry. Recently, though, they have refurbished the Palazzo Pretorio (Town Hall) which dates from the 13th century.  They have made it into exhibition space, and kicked off with a fantastic show of renaissance painters who worked in Prato, but some of whose paintings have been gathered from all over Europe for the exhibition - including one from Scotland.

Prato has an old and important cathedral containing frescos by renaissance masters - Uccello, Lippi, Gaddi and others.  From the outside, one is struck by a strange outdoor pulpit.  This was custom built by Donatello and Michelozzo in 1430 specifically for the public showing of a girdle given by the Virgin Mary to St Thomas the Apostle.  This girdle, or belt, was brought to the cathedral by a Prato merchant in the 14th century and is still shown publicly five times a year, when thousands gather in the square to see it.  Inside, the frescos, despite being 600 years old, appear as bright and animated as the day they were painted.

A friendly coffee shop to start our visit ...

... with meringue teddies!

The cathedral, with the special pulpit on the right

Fresco of Salome dancing, on left - and presenting the head of John the Baptist on right

Palazzo Pretorio housing the exhibition 

Castello dell'Imperatore built in 1240 for the Holy Roman Emperor

Cabin fever cured

After a week of fogs and rains, last night was starry, this morning the temperature had dropped to 2°C, (down seven degrees from yesterday morning) and ... we got our mountain back!

We decided on a trip up to the nearby fortified town of Castiglione, where a cappucino could be had, and where there is a medieval bridge which we knew about but have not yet tried to find.

The first objective was easily completed, and we asked in the cafe for directions to the bridge, which turned out to be within walking distance.  The bridge is 14th century, and is on the Via Francigena, which we keep coming across around here.  This pilgrim's way ran, in ancient times, from Canterbury to Rome.  For the next couple of hours or so, we ascended the old paved road beyond the bridge and through the forest to a small settlement, before turning back as the light began to fade.

The fog dissipates and the view emerges ...

The eye is drawn to this line of trees in the middle distance ...

600 years old and still going strong  

Beautiful keying between the coping stones on the parapet 

Timely Christmas roses

A hobbit house in the woods

First sunset for a while

All good things come to an end ...

And weather is not an exception.  Our wonderful dry sunny spell which lasted almost four weeks, left us a few days ago and was replaced by a warm foggy dampness.  However, plenty stuff to be done indoors (eg learn italian - again!) and yesterday evening, the fog cleared, and allowed the "Presepio Vivente" to go ahead in almost perfect conditions.

These "living nativity" scenes take place all over Italy in various forms, but in Barga, various crafts and trades from times gone by are illustrated by tableaux set up in the streets of the town and in cellars of the houses.   Knife-grinders, wood carvers, stone carvers, blacksmiths, knitters, carders, spinners, olive pressers and many more vie for the attention of the spectators, while stalls offer mulled wine and foods of the region for our refreshment.  The town was very busy, more so than last year, when it was colder, and some of the tiny lanes were virtually one-way for pedestrians, who at times had to make way as the odd donkey or goat passed upon its way ...

The scene greeting the eye these last few mornings

A blacksmith at work at a portable forge in the presepio 

An ancient surgeon displays his fearsome tools

Action with the two man saw

Ladies toasting and dispensing barley coffee (orzo tostato) - it's caffeine free!

The fog clears a bit again this afternoon (Tuesday)

In Lucca

On Wednesday we took the train back to Lucca from Florence.  Lucca was a half-way house, as the next day, D&D needed to get to Pisa for their flight, and we were to go back to Barga.

The lights and illuminations in Lucca were beautiful, our hotel (15th century, natch) was superb and we had a great meal in an osteria just by the amphitheatre.

Next day, after making our farewells, B&B paid an overdue visit to the Lucca museum which is basically an ancient palace, intact and with all the trimmings.

Light show on the side of the Basilica San Michele ...

... and on the walls of the houses lining the amphitheatre 

... and forming a backdrop to B&D on the way to our meal

The big mirror allowed me to take a photo without getting up!   

Wending our way back to the hotel

In the palace, Barbara admires the opulent sleeping arrangements 

In Florence

As we did last year, we went to Florence for the day, on Tuesday.  We went up the dome of the Duomo, and enjoyed the fantastic views afforded from the cupola at the top.

D&D head off to immerse themselves in Firenze

Famous statue - "Il Porcellino"(The Piglet) - In front of a dazzling display of handbags at the New Market.  Visitors rub his nose to ensure a speedy return to Florence.

The calm waters of the Arno mirror the Ponte Vecchio ...

... while a reflective gull contemplates other reflections

A dazzling display of glass in an upmarket shop window

What B&B&D&D did next ...

Busy days.  We had a wonderful meal in a busy Altana (favourite restaurant) and on the way home had a seat by a still hot brazier left over from a street market.

Next day to Montefegetisi down near the old spa town of Bagni di Lucca, and the high walk which B&B did a week or so ago.  A lot of the snow has now gone.  We haven't had a proper thaw, but there has been a lot of sunshine, and no further precipitation.  Wonderful days really.

A surreal warm seat in a deserted Barga

High above Bagni di Lucca - looking out to sea with Corsica on horizon

The end of the picnic

Montefegatesi in the westering sun upstages B&B

Looking towards the Apuani from Montefegatesi

B&B welcome D&D

We met Donella and Dave in Lucca on Friday. They had come from Pisa where it was sunny, and we had come from Barga where it was also sunny, but In Lucca it was cold and cloudy - ho hum. Anyway, capuccini were had, as were panini, before we headed for the train home, where bread dough and a lot of sticks awaited conversion to pizzas.

Today, morning mist cleared to allow us to hike up to Sommocolonia.  We came down to Barga to attend a small "Degustazione Castagnaccio" (tasting - and judging -  the chestnut traybakes) and a beer in a very busy bar d'Aristo.

What can I say? - fun in Lucca 

And again ...

Getting a heat-up from the pizza oven

Bill tells it like it is over lunch

Around Barga

The good weather has allowed us to get on with homely chores.  The olives have not been as productive as last year, but Barbara easily collected enough good ripe ones to put in brine for eating.  This time, after washing, the olives were slit to try and speed up the process - we didn't do this last year and it was many weeks before the olives were edible.

Yesterday, however we stirred ourselves to drive up the road behind us to Renaio, a hamlet of three or so houses, (but one of which is a cafe!) for a walk in the snow.  The mountains were very serene and beautiful.

The olive harvest ...

Preparing for the pickle ...

Bill gets on with the woodwork ...

... while Barbara gets on with the Italian

Picnic spot above Renaio

The snow is slowly going ...

... but this chap still found a warm spot to bask in the sun

Murano where the glass comes from

Apparently, in 1291, the Venetians decided that their glassworks were just too much of a fire risk, so they were all banished to the nearby island of Murano. At one point Murano was the main producer of glass in Europe.

Murano is just a mini Venice, canals and all.  Every second shop sells glass and there is a museum showing the evolution of Venetian glass from Roman times.

It was all very interesting - with a couple of vaporetto rides thrown, to keep us islanders happy.

Vaporettos jockey for position at the "bus stop"

Barbara and Murano

Old examples of Murano glass in the museum (not my photo!)

Modern designs can be more flamboyant 

With all that glass, you need barges of bubblewrap!